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Mary Katrantzou, Womenswear Show, Autumn/Winter 2015/16, London

A catwalk of pink foam spikes and a note from the programme explaining: “the fear of the vacuum versus modernism”… At Mary Katrantzou, everything is conceptual, thoughtful, and precise. The designer asked several questions, that she looks to rework for the extremely worked clothes. The first models appear wearing huge pleated skirts, paired with crop tops, like sculpted on the body, in a Victorian style. Then follow duffle-coats embroidered with flowers, and even dresses and coats in fur, also found in PVC, plastic and colourful spikes, on the bottom or on the level of the pockets. The large belts come to tighten the waist, themselves playing with volume. Because it is still a question of textures and feeling. The clothes take on new dimensions. What seems to be pure is in reality ultra constrained. And finally the essential of these original clothes is that it is all wearable. To note: the accessories, and the clutches taking again the pink spikes…