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Paul Smith, Womenswear Show, Autumn/Winter 2015/16, London

.Tailoring is a never-ending starting point at Paul Smith. The designer who has shown for several seasons in the buildings of the Central St Martins School, always returns to the roots and renews his basics through new proportions. The trousers are worn loosely, the jacket is short and boxy, or on the contrast much more close fitted for a longline silhouette. The satin and silk chosen for the jackets and the dresses ready to be thrown on bring fluidity, just enough to add the enveloping coats without sleeves, a touch of shearling, made in a yellow-orange. The palette is rather autumnal, even if it is scattered with charm by polka dots, pinstripes and even black and white checks. As Paul Smith outlines, each piece is carefully considered so it can be added to an existing wardrobe which become inevitably ideal. To note: the long grey coat without a collar, or the red dress with black leather lining, so simple and yet it falls perfectly. Interview : Paul Smith : As you know my history is with tailoring and with my first things I did as a young designer was you know beautiful suits, my wife taught me everything I know about making clothes beautifully, because she studied at the Royal College of Art during the period when they were still teaching couture fashion, so my knowledge is about cut, shape, how to put the sleeve in, and the detail, so hopefully that was obvious with the clothes you know, either the very slim silhouette or the big square silhouette. What I wanted to do was to try and create clothes that you could add to your existing wardrobe, because obviously we know the world is a bit confused at the moment, and so I wanted things that you could buy a coat that work with what you’ve got or vice versa. A lot of silk and a lot of satin, fluid with solid, so the opposites – playing with opposites, so very solid, very rigid, and then liquid, together. We’ve got a big new energy, we’ve got some new members of the team which is really, really fantastic and we’re really alive, full of energy, which is needed today!