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Giles, Womenswear Show, Autumn/Winter 2015/16, London

At Giles, romance always rubs shoulders with a dark or even gothic side. Black is the chosen colour for everything, from the bow ties, through to these coat-capes, these close fitting dresses, all worn over these ruffled shirts. Then a print appears, tie-dye effect but much more worked, inspired by certain paintings that Giles Deacon admires. The volume takes its importance with huge skirts worn over fine waists. You need a lot of personality to wear the pieces designed by Giles where the judicious choice of models, from Jessica Stam to Aymeline Valade, from Kendall Jenner to Erin O’Connor, without forgetting the final strapless dress, all pleated put in the spotlight by Anna Cleveland. To note: the makeup: pale skin and very dark lips, almost black, a trend already noticed in New York. Interview: Giles Deacon: It’s a very firm territory I’m happy working within, a kind of beautiful macabre and it’s got this kind of gothic sensibility but then has this really romantic and slightly naturalistic element to it as well. Lots of bows, well from a historical reference I thought they worked very well with the collection and I did lots of research in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, which is a phenomenal museum, some really super paintings that they have in there and I also spent quite a lot of time in the Chelsea Physic Garden , which is a very romantic, gothic garden in Chelsea in London, and it was one of the first places to have all this development and finding of all the medicinal plants and herbs from around the world, and it has a very interesting history, and I love the idea of these girls spending time in this gothic garden from Georgian times right through to Marianne Faithful time to now, so we kind of had an intermixing of all these elements. We wanted the girls to have the opportunity to really push and show their character and express it in a very kind of sexy, womanly, gorgeous way.