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SPFW – Final Days Highlights

Gloria Coelho presented her Summer 2017 collection at the São Paulo University of Fine Arts (Belas Artes), and the show itself was quite arty, with models coming one by one up on the stage of the auditorium, and taking  frontal, side and back poses, like an abstract ballet. The collection, named « The Garden in the Asymmetrical Sea », showed many mixed references from kirigami to holiday in the Mediterranean, from punk rock to jet set. There is definitely an architectural feel about it, with structured shapes, highlighted by a simple palette and a combination of tech fabrics with more natural materials, such as silk and leather.

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Água de Coco by Liana Thomaz drew inspiration in the extravagant richness of the Amazonian Forest. This amazing collection is filled with prints featuring key elements of the faune and flore of this area: cats, toucans, araras, but also giant green leaves and flowers, coconut fibres, etc. What makes these prints even more extraordinary is the craft techniques used to create these patterns, from silk threads used to create the fringes to the embroidery and bead work used for the toucans. Beachwear at its most couture best!

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Salinas’s collection for Summer 2017 is most definitely summery, very vibrant, with sporty silhouettes and a clash of neon colours throughout. Delightful.

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Amir Slama made his comeback t SPFW with his homonym beachwear brand. The collection includes both men and women pieces, with an inspiration from street carnaval parties from the 30’s/40’s, as well as Brigitte Bardot for the female silhouettes, and a more (beach) fitness touch for the masculine counterpart.

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Lino Villaventura opened the final day, and it was quite a show! Bringing together three big names of the industry – beside Lino himself, Miro was taking live pictures that were appearing simultaneously on the screen, and Paulo Borges took care of the scenography – the show was like a super production. The collection itself was very dramatic, theatrical, playing was volumes and textures. Alice in Wonderland meets Dune.

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Wagner Kallieno celebrated women who like to steal their men’s clothes, and the absolute sexiness about it. Inspired by the character of Alex in Flashdance, his Summer 2017 collection is very refreshing.

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For the third collection of Ratier, Renato Ratier continues his minimalist work. Gaining in maturity season after season, the silhouettes, while keeping a streetwear vibe, become more sophisticated. Inspired by the work of the Bauhaus, the garments present simple, geometrical shapes, in a palette of earthy tones.

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Ellus closed this 41st edition of SPFW with a mix of street and beach wear. Denim shorts or skirts combined with Hawaiian prints, and a twist of tech via a resine lace, made in France.

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Laurie Guillem