On Thursday, June 23rd, Issey Miyake presented the new Men Collection in Pierre and Marie Curie University in Paris. As always the show had been long-waited by the press people and also the fashion world. This time, the Japanese designer Yusuke Takahashi imagined a Journey from a White Page, the collection took inspiration from the styles of Varanasi, in India. Minimal and adapted to the lifestyle of this region, the outfits lightened up the grey modern building of the University, while the band Kikagaku Moyo’s live music accompanied the models whith their original jam music, exclusively for this collection. Matching with the brand’s identity, they played a curious and delicate blend of psych rock, acid folk, and traditional Indian music.
The guests were therefore invited to a particular journey. Developed with soft-to-the-touch textured fabrics, shades of white, shadow and light, through which diffracted colours appear as if turning page after page. Issey Miyake’s easy, relaxed elegance was represented by natural fabrics with uneven textures.
Designed for a man who is both urban and close to nature, the collection was divided into three parts. The first one focused on Wrinkle fabrics symbolic of Issey Miyake Men. The wrinkle processing method creates a ridges in the fabric by partially shrinking the material, the texture comes from the twist of a yarn or complex woven patterns. As we all know Issey Miyake masters those technics in different collection especially with the brand’s Pleats Please line. Here, the hand crafted pleats created by applying a tornado tie dyeing technique, ensured the clothing to maintain its texture given by the natural fabrics. The garnments have as well superb stretch, non-iron, and washable functionalities. The solid white and black tones enhance the collection’s organic and loose-fitting styles, a if wrapping oneself in a piece of cloth.
Looking a the second part of the collection, the atmosphere changes as the looks gradually gain color, transitioning to multicolored and dynamic patterns, conceived from the Holi festival. The Holi festival or Colors Festival, comes from the Hinduism and celebrates Spring Equinox. For Issey Miyake, those abstract watercolor patterns printed on lyocell express an inner joy. Stamp-plaid is printed on hemp modal, and intricate marble patterns are printed on cotton shirt fabric and wool fabric for suits. The use of quality-materials as well as skilled craftesmen are essential elements to Miyake’s collection. All the fabrics are hand-printed, and their realisations requested the use of ten different printing blocks for each designs. The resulting style conveys a sophisticated and relaxed comfort.
Finally, we come back to Miyake’s perfect minimal style. The lightweight jacket with a minimal structure maintains form through a construction created from scratch with the manufacturer. The shapes fluidity is also due to the fabric developed from an original yarn which is crease-resistant. The material is printed on the both side, and completed to a magnificient finish. The stand-up collar and fly front are adding to the overall look a cosmopolitan style for the modern man.
Take a journey with Issey Miyake and enjoy the show here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8XH8c0mxEs&feature=youtu.be.