Riccardo Tisci presented his Autumn/Winter 2019 collection for Burberry last week at a new show venue in-between two contrasting bespoke show environments within the Tate Modern Tanks. In alignment with the inspiration for the show, the venue evoked the idea of contrast and perspective, with one environment more structured, traditional and formal with angular, rigid wood seating set above a dimly lit runway, and the other more rebellious, brutalist and real, with over 100 youths climbing fences and scaffolding in a representation of the designer’s drive for freedom and inclusivity.
Called ‘Tempest’, the collection takes inspiration from the contrasts in British culture and weather, from the structured to the rebellious and free. The designer further develops the codes first set out in his debut collection for Burberry last year, and continues to explore the four characters that are becoming integral to this house – the girl, the boy, the lady and the gentleman.
Presented in four parts, the collection contains 106 looks. Outerwear is key, as always for Burberry, with many variations around trenches and coats, including shearling and faux fur coats. Beige dominates the colour palette, punctuated with green, red, pale blue, orange, brown and black. Tonal layers feature an injection of colour.
Vintage check, stripes and the Thomas Burberry Monogram are explored further, in addition to nautical references such as seascapes, oysters and ropework details. In terms of accessories, Riccardo Tisci revisits key shapes introduced last season. The TB Bag returns in new iterations. The Society is updated in extra-large and portrait styles for men.