Richard Malone’s SS20 collection was dedicated to his grandmother Nellie, who had an immeasurable influence on the designer’s career and creative process, and passed away a few months ago.
The collection explores grief, honesty and change. The intricate illustrated prints visible underneath many of the looks are taken from scraps of paper and old till receipts, across which they sat together, talked and drew.
Across extraordinary hyper-constructed tailoring, shapes are extended and contorted by recycled wadding. Much of the fit-and-flare suiting integrates Taroni silks from past collections’ production runs, and offcuts in abstract shapes are given new life. Archive samples are reconstructed and refurbished, integrating handwoven linen and horsehair canvas into masterful new work which tells the story of Malone’s inherent respect for tailoring.
For the first time, evening-wear takes a large space, with flowing full-length gowns showing fastidious levels of detail that demonstrate the designer’s masterful navigation of fabric weight and garment construction
Redefining the idea of ‘legacy’, from this collection onward Malone stated he would consciously dispense with the idea of seasonality. Collections will be named simply after the date on which they are presented – rendering the archive as precious, and as available, as the new.