Jayne Pierson A/W11 – London Fashion Week

Like many designers this season, Jayne Pierson’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2001-2012 revolves around black and otherwise neutral tones and, like many designers, she drew her inspiration from the concepts of death, disfiguration and anatomy, through the works of Joel Peter Witkins, and 17th century anatomists.

What makes a difference and gives Jayne’s Pierson collection its unique signature, is her use black leather, adding a decadent Eighties feel to it, a touch of porn chic to the gothic revival from the Victorian period, or in other words Eros and Thanatos applied to fashion. Some silhouettes, like the tight skirts and cropped jackets with exaggerated shoulder pads, all in black leather, seem to come straight out of a Helmut Newton photoshoot. Next to the severe Victorian inspired outfits, these amazons from the Eighties sport body-conscious looks sometimes in patent leather and latex, offering a very strong silhouette.

The collection, named “Kingdom of Shadows”, was beautifully accessorised with black leather skin-tight boots, definitely not a new concept but always stylish and adding a touch of kinky chic to any outfit.

All garments are produced in the UK studio, which makes Jayne Pierson’s brand a truly British label.

Laurie Guillem

Photography: Geoff Pugh – On Off