London Fashion Week – John Rocha SS13

Next summer will be colourful or it won’t be, to paraphrase André Malraux – and it is certainly not John Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection that will contradict this statement.

‘Joyous’, ‘fruity’, ‘playful’ – those are the words that came to my mind when the first models appeared on the catwalk. With the oversized puffy skirts and layering of silk organza and pleated chiffon, including on the models’ heads, it felt like the most gorgeous cupcakes had grown (long) pairs of legs and decided to strut down the catwalk.

While the palette remains partially faithful to signature black and cream, the collection is also a true explosion of bright colours –  yellow, sky blue, scarlet red, rose pink – as a tribute to the colours of Provence. John Rocha said the main inspiration this season was provided by the time he spent in Chateau La Coste, both a vineyard and an arts centre in the South of France, near Aix-en-Provence.

The silhouettes are still very structured, but this season the designer has added a touch of softness, reflected in the round volumes and the delicate layering of silk, chiffon and guipure lace. A fantastic work on structure and texture, as ever, with a perfect balance between strength and sweetness.

Laurie Guillem