{"id":315616,"date":"2021-09-20T15:32:12","date_gmt":"2021-09-20T13:32:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/?p=315616"},"modified":"2021-09-20T15:32:12","modified_gmt":"2021-09-20T13:32:12","slug":"edward-crutchley-london-fashion-week-ss22","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/blog\/2021\/09\/20\/edward-crutchley-london-fashion-week-ss22\/","title":{"rendered":"Edward Crutchley - Semaine de la mode de Londres SS22"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Edward Crutchley | Printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2022 | Retransmission en direct du d\u00e9fil\u00e9\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZwxLMr0l98M?start=1586&#038;feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Regarder le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 en direct de la collection SS22 d'Edward Crutchley est un plaisir incroyable. Le cr\u00e9ateur nous emm\u00e8ne \u00e0 travers un magnifique voyage et un hommage \u00e0 la culture queer \u00e0 Londres, d\u00e8s le 18e si\u00e8cle, avec une magnifique robe en brocart et une robe \u00e0 l'anglaise en cr\u00eape lurex (dont nous apprenons, gr\u00e2ce aux notes de collection tr\u00e8s d\u00e9taill\u00e9es et document\u00e9es, qu'il s'agit d'une robe pr\u00e8s du corps \u00e0 l'avant et \u00e0 l'arri\u00e8re, port\u00e9e \u00e0 la fin du 18e si\u00e8cle sans sacoche) qui ouvrait et fermait le d\u00e9fil\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les m\u00eames notes de collection commencent par un extrait d'article de presse tir\u00e9 du Weekly Journal du 5 octobre 1728 :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Dans la nuit de dimanche \u00e0 lundi, un agent de police et ses assistants ont perquisitionn\u00e9 la maison de Jonathan Muff, alias Miss Muff, dans Black-Lyon Yard, pr\u00e8s de l'\u00e9glise de Whitechapel, o\u00f9 ils ont appr\u00e9hend\u00e9 neuf hommes, dont l'homme de la maison. Elles ont \u00e9t\u00e9 enferm\u00e9es cette nuit-l\u00e0 dans la Nouvelle Prison, et lundi matin elles ont \u00e9t\u00e9 examin\u00e9es devant le juge Jackson, \u00e0 Ayliff-street ; John Bleak Cawlend a \u00e9t\u00e9 envoy\u00e9 \u00e0 Newgate, \u00e9tant accus\u00e9 sous serment d'avoir commis le p\u00e9ch\u00e9 d\u00e9testable de sodomie.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La collection elle-m\u00eame est tr\u00e8s complaisante et opulente, avec des imprim\u00e9s fabuleux sur les tricots surdimensionn\u00e9s - et sur pratiquement tous les v\u00eatements - et un \u00e9tonnant lurex vert menthe\/sauce utilis\u00e9 sur certaines mini-jupes, bottes et costumes. Les r\u00e9f\u00e9rences et l'inspiration vont au-del\u00e0 du 18\u00e8me si\u00e8cle et m\u00e9langent diff\u00e9rentes p\u00e9riodes dans le temps, ce qui semble \u00eatre un exercice p\u00e9rilleux mais d\u00e9finitivement r\u00e9ussi ici. Des faisceaux laser tout droit venus des ann\u00e9es 80 et 90, lorsque la culture du clubbing londonien impliquait de rivaliser de mode outranci\u00e8re et de costumes historiquement r\u00e9f\u00e9renc\u00e9s, font ce lien. Les mannequins masculins et f\u00e9minins portent indiff\u00e9remment ce qui serait consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme un article traditionnel de la mode f\u00e9minine et vice versa. L'habillage sexiste appartient au pass\u00e9 et le cr\u00e9ateur a d\u00e9clar\u00e9 qu'il avait d\u00e9pass\u00e9 le terme \"neutre\" : <em>\"Je fais des v\u00eatements - ce sont des v\u00eatements ! Je les mets sur un pr\u00e9sentoir, et les acheteurs ach\u00e8tent pour ce qu'ils pensent.\"<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-8x12.webp 8w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-624x936.webp 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00014-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315752\" 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https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00006-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00006-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00006-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-8x12.webp 8w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00006-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-624x936.webp 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00006-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-8x12.webp 8w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-624x936.webp 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00009-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315755\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-8x12.webp 8w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-624x936.webp 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00011-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-8x12.webp 8w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-624x936.webp 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Regarder le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 en direct de la collection SS22 d'Edward Crutchley est un plaisir incroyable. Le cr\u00e9ateur nous emm\u00e8ne dans un magnifique voyage et rend hommage \u00e0...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":14,"featured_media":315751,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[621,232,233,620,544],"class_list":["post-315616","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mode","tag-edward-crutchley","tag-lfw","tag-london-fashion-week","tag-spring-summer-2022","tag-ss22"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/14"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=315616"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":315757,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616\/revisions\/315757"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/315751"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=315616"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=315616"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=315616"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}