{"id":72366,"date":"2021-02-27T14:00:12","date_gmt":"2021-02-27T14:00:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/?p=72366"},"modified":"2021-02-27T14:00:12","modified_gmt":"2021-02-27T14:00:12","slug":"erdem-london-fashion-week-aw21","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/blog\/2021\/02\/27\/erdem-london-fashion-week-aw21\/","title":{"rendered":"Erdem - Semaine de la mode de Londres AW21"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Spectacle automne-hiver 2021 | ERDEM\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/r5BGws_-BeI?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour l'automne-hiver 2021, Erdem nous emm\u00e8ne au ballet, plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans les coulisses, cet espace liminal entre la sc\u00e8ne et le hors-sc\u00e8ne, entre le public et le priv\u00e9. Film\u00e9e au Bridge Theatre de Londres, la collection capture en un instant cette tension des contraintes si particuli\u00e8re au ballet : le li\u00e9, le sans limite, le non li\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L'esprit de la collection vient de Margot Fonteyn \u00e0 l'\u00e9poque de sa carri\u00e8re o\u00f9 elle a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 danser avec Rudolf Nureyev. En 1961, lorsqu'ils se rencontrent pour la premi\u00e8re fois, Fonteyn a 42 ans et Noureev 23. Elle \u00e9tait pr\u00eate \u00e0 prendre sa retraite, mais l'alchimie de leur performance \u00e9tait telle qu'elle a continu\u00e9 \u00e0 danser pendant pr\u00e8s de deux d\u00e9cennies. Leur synergie a transcend\u00e9 les tabous et bris\u00e9 les id\u00e9es re\u00e7ues sur l'\u00e2ge d'une danseuse et l'\u00e9volution de sa carri\u00e8re. Les photographies de cette \u00e9poque montrent Fonteyn en dehors du travail, dans les coulisses et en r\u00e9p\u00e9tition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La collection explore ces juxtapositions particuli\u00e8res de performance et de repos, d'\u00e2ge et d'attente, de costume formel et de v\u00eatements informels, diversement combin\u00e9s et entrelac\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parmi les mod\u00e8les figurent quatre danseuses principales du Royal Ballet d'hier et d'aujourd'hui : Christina Arestis, Elizabeth McGorian, Zenaida Yanowsky et Marguerite Porter, qui a dans\u00e9 le Lac des cygnes avec Noureev. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les v\u00eatements de r\u00e9p\u00e9tition se m\u00e9langent aux sous-v\u00eatements et aux costumes de sc\u00e8ne, qu'ils portent ou non en attendant leur appel. La f\u00e9minit\u00e9 stricte des costumes de ballet et des chaussures de pointe contraste avec le confort des leggings c\u00f4tel\u00e9s et des longs gants de laine, et le glamour avachi des pardessus et des couvertures. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les cr\u00e9ations s\u00e9minales de Frederik Ashton sont \u00e9voqu\u00e9es dans des robes aux embellissements bijoutiers surdimensionn\u00e9s, visibles depuis le fond de l'auditorium : robes en organza avec plumes \u00e0 paillettes et robes de duchesse avec cristaux surdimensionn\u00e9s en rose et rouge. Les motifs de plumes et les barrettes en plumes d'autruche \u00e9voquent une repr\u00e9sentation du Lac des cygnes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Une palette de rouges, de roses, de noirs et d'\u00e9crus a une qualit\u00e9 cin\u00e9matographique satur\u00e9e. De grandes robes en mikado avec des imprim\u00e9s aqueux comme des projections de sc\u00e8ne d\u00e9form\u00e9es ajoutent un sens plus abstrait de la th\u00e9\u00e2tralit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les costumes et les manteaux cintr\u00e9s font penser \u00e0 une ma\u00eetresse de ballet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plusieurs robes se confondent avec le soubassement, r\u00e9v\u00e9lant la structure qui maintient en place le costume et la danseuse. L'utilit\u00e9 expos\u00e9e donne une beaut\u00e9 particuli\u00e8rement fragile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les manteaux d'op\u00e9ra et les jupes pliss\u00e9es volumineuses introduisent un glamour plus puissant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-1.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72368\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-2.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72369\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-3.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72370\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-4.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72371\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-5.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-72372\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6-624x936.jpg 624w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pour l'automne hiver 2021, Erdem nous emm\u00e8ne au ballet, plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans les coulisses, cet espace liminal entre la sc\u00e8ne et le hors-sc\u00e8ne, entre le public et...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":14,"featured_media":72372,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[235,307,232,233],"class_list":["post-72366","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mode","tag-aw21","tag-erdem","tag-lfw","tag-london-fashion-week"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Erdem-6.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/72366","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/14"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=72366"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/72366\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":72374,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/72366\/revisions\/72374"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/72372"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=72366"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=72366"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=72366"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}