Burberry Prorsum A/W11 - Settimana della moda di Londra

If I were to choose just one word to summarise Burberry Prorsum Autum/Winter 2011 collection, it would most certainly be “outerwear”. Coats are declined into all kinds of shapes, textures and colours. Although oversized silhouettes seem to be prominent, Christopher Bailey has explored all possibilities: double volume, fitted, military, sculptural volume, bubble-backs but also cropped cape jackets, or cable knitted panel jackets. Were also presented some of the models, themes and details seen in the pre-collection at the end of last year.

The inspiration for this collection was Jean Shrimpton, also known as The Shrimp, iconic English model and central figure of Swinging London, after who the collection was named. References to the Sixties were everywhere, from the shape of the short tunic coats to details such as the funnel necks  or rounded stand collars, to the use of block colours.

The colour palette was indeed ranging from trench, mustard, camel, honey to very bright colours, raspberry, tangerine, primary red, teal, teamed with opaque black tights for contrast.

The dresses and coats in white – a colour that is apparently expected to be prominent next season -were properly stunning, both simple and luxurious. Christopher Bailey drew on the English heritage in terms of fabrics, with gabardine, tweeds, blanket check wools. One of the details I appreciated most at the sh0w were the thin black leather ropes tied around the waist with a bow.

The show ended on a sumptuous note, with snow falling down from the ceiling all along the runway, while all models walked it, wearing transparent plastic rain capes. The soundtrack added to the magic of the moment, with “You Don’t Have to Say You Love Me” by Dusty Springfield.

As usual, the show, considered as the highlight of London Fashion Week, was attended by a lot of celebrities including Rachel Bilson, Kate Bosworth, Alexa Chung, Stella Tennant, Maggie Cheung, Jamie Hince, Simon Le Bon but also Anna Wintour and Mario Testino. It was also streamed live onto the famous 32 metre digital screen on London’s iconic Piccadilly Circus.

Laurie Guillem