{"id":315616,"date":"2021-09-20T15:32:12","date_gmt":"2021-09-20T13:32:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/?p=315616"},"modified":"2021-09-20T15:32:12","modified_gmt":"2021-09-20T13:32:12","slug":"edward-crutchley-london-fashion-week-ss22","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/blog\/2021\/09\/20\/edward-crutchley-london-fashion-week-ss22\/","title":{"rendered":"Edward Crutchley - Settimana della moda di Londra SS22"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Edward Crutchley | Primavera Estate 2022 | Live Runway Stream\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ZwxLMr0l98M?start=1586&#038;feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Guardare il live runway stream della collezione SS22 di Edward Crutchley \u00e8 un piacere incredibile. Lo stilista ci porta attraverso un bellissimo viaggio e un tributo alla cultura queer a Londra, a partire dal XVIII secolo con un bellissimo abito di broccato e una robe \u00e0 l'anglaise in cr\u00eape lurex (che apprendiamo dalle note di collezione molto dettagliate e documentate \u00e8 un abito aderente sia davanti che dietro indossato alla fine del XVIII secolo senza gerle) che ha aperto e chiuso lo show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le stesse note di raccolta iniziano con un frammento di cronaca da The Weekly Journal, 5 ottobre 1728:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>La notte di domenica scorsa un poliziotto con i suoi assistenti ha perquisito la casa di Jonathan Muff, alias Miss Muff, in Black-Lyon Yard, vicino alla chiesa di Whitechapel, dove hanno arrestato nove donne, compreso l'uomo di casa. Furono messi al sicuro quella notte nella New Prison, e luned\u00ec mattina furono esaminati davanti al giudice Jackson, in Ayliff-street; John Bleak Cawlend fu mandato a Newgate, essendo accusato, sotto giuramento, di aver commesso il detestabile peccato della Sodomia.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La collezione stessa \u00e8 molto indulgente e opulenta con stampe favolose su maglie oversize - e praticamente tutti i capi - e uno splendido lurex verde menta\/salvia usato su alcune delle minigonne, stivali e abiti. I riferimenti e le ispirazioni vanno oltre il 18esimo secolo e mescolano diversi periodi nel tempo, che sembra un esercizio pericoloso ma che qui ha decisamente successo. I raggi laser direttamente dagli anni '80 e '90, quando la cultura del clubbing londinese implicava la competizione per la moda oltraggiosa e i costumi con riferimenti storici, fanno questo collegamento. Modelli maschili e femminili indossano indifferentemente quello che sarebbe considerato un capo tradizionale da donna e viceversa. Il gender dressing \u00e8 una cosa del passato e lo stilista ha detto di essere andato oltre il termine gender neutral: <em>\"Faccio vestiti - sono vestiti! Li metto su uno scaffale e poi gli acquirenti comprano per quello che pensano\".<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, 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height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-315756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-683x1024.webp 683w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-200x300.webp 200w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-768x1152.webp 768w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1024x1536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00013-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-1365x2048.webp 1365w, 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Il designer ci porta attraverso un bellissimo viaggio e...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":14,"featured_media":315751,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[621,232,233,620,544],"class_list":["post-315616","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mode","tag-edward-crutchley","tag-lfw","tag-london-fashion-week","tag-spring-summer-2022","tag-ss22"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/00001-Edward-Crutchley-Spring-22-RTW-London-credit-Chris-Yates-scaled.webp","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/14"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=315616"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":315757,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/315616\/revisions\/315757"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/315751"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=315616"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=315616"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=315616"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}