{"id":62062,"date":"2010-11-04T18:42:29","date_gmt":"2010-11-04T17:42:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/?p=16082"},"modified":"2010-11-04T18:42:29","modified_gmt":"2010-11-04T17:42:29","slug":"future-beauty-30-years-of-japanese-fashion-at-barbican-art-gallery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/blog\/2010\/11\/04\/future-beauty-30-years-of-japanese-fashion-at-barbican-art-gallery\/","title":{"rendered":"Bellezza futura: 30 anni di moda giapponese alla Barbican Art Gallery"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Under no pretext should you miss Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion<\/em> at Barbican Art Gallery. Curated by the Japanese fashion historian Akiko Fukai, Director of\u00a0the Kyoto Costume Institute (KCI), the exhibition covers 30 years of\u00a0avant-garde japanese fashion, from the early 1980s to now. It is also the first time in England that a gallery displays the Kyoto Costume Institute\u2019s legendary collection,\u00a0showcasing the works \u00a0of Japan’s greatest designers from masters like Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and\u00a0Yohji Yamamoto, to\u00a0\u00a0internationally acclaimed Junya Watanabe\u00a0and Jun Takahashi, to\u00a0the daring and\u00a0highly innovative\u00a0new generation, including Tao Kurihara, Matohu and Mintdesigns.
\nJapanese designers made an enormous impact on world couture in the eighties by challenging established Western aesthetics. Rejecting the then obsession with body-consciousness, whether it be in terms of colours,\u00a0shapes or fabrics,\u00a0they\u00a0invented a whole new language. With a\u00a0focus on\u00a0concealing the body rather than revealing it, they radically changed the face of fashion.
\nKate Bush, Head of Art Galleries, Barbican Centre, said: “The great Japanese designers \u2013 Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto \u2013 changed fashion forever in the 1980s. The tight silhouettes of Western couture were jettisoned for new fluid shapes. Out went the magnificent ornament and extravagant techniques of the post-war tradition and in came a stark, monochrome palette and an entirely new decorative language \u2013 holes, rips, frays and tears \u2013 emerging from the stuff of fabric itself. I am delighted that Barbican Art Gallery is the first gallery in Europe to chart this fascinating and influential period in design history.”<\/em>
\nThe first section of the lower galleries, In Praise of Shadows, \u00a0focuses on the three pioneers – Miyake, Kawakubo, Yamamoto – and,\u00a0having in mind the aerobic culture of the eighties, it is pretty easy to understand why the black or white\u00a0fluid dresses on display here were considered as revolutionary. Such a strong avoidance of colour and\u00a0use of deconstructed shapes could have hardly stayed unnoticed. From a wonderful black and dark blue dress by Rei Kawakubo for Comme Des Garcons (A\/W 83-84) to an impressive black nylon taffeta coat, it is a\u00a0perfect celebration of the beauty and power of black as a colour.
\nNext, Flatness<\/em> explores the work around volume and geometry\u00a0in Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo’s creations, including the mythic pleats garments, launched in the early nineties, and\u00a0\u00a0which combined traditional shobori tie-dying and modern fabrics.<\/p>\n

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Tradition is\u00a0explored further in the third section, or more specifically how traditional Japanese garments and techniques, such as kimono and origami, have been\u00a0radically reinvented through\u00a0the technological advances in textile. Non woven fabrics, kraft-paper, bright-coloured nylon nets, we have definitely landed in a much more techno world. This section includes paper garments by TAO, OhYa and Mintdesigns,\u00a0examples of Kawakubo\u2019s deconstructionist work,\u00a0Watanabe\u2019s seminal A\/W 2000 collection Techno Couture, but also\u00a0modern takes on traditional Japanese techniques and garments by Yamamoto, Kenzo and Matohu.
\nCool Japan<\/em>, the final section of the lower galleries,\u00a0virtually takes us to the famous Shibuya area in Tokyo, focussing on influences of street style\u00a0in high fashion.
\nThe upper galleries of Future Beauty allow us to go even further in the exploration of Japanese fashion, with\u00a0individual presentations of the principle designers’ works,\u00a0featuring a range of archive and recent works: Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Jun Takahashi and Tao Kurihara, as well as Mintdesigns and a number of emerging designers such as Akira Naka, Anrealage, N\u00e9-Net, Sacai, Somarta, Mikio Sakabe, and Taro Horiuchi. Whilst the lower galleries are more didactic, this part of the exhibition is all about pleasure and wonder. Some of the most iconic and breath-taking creations\u00a0by the great names of Japanese fashion are displayed here. For your eyes only!<\/p>\n

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And if you want even more –\u00a0and it is\u00a0very\u00a0likely you will – \u00a0a great\u00a0programme of talks, performances, workshops and lively late night events with emerging and high profile practitioners, leading writers and historians accompanies the exhibition. More information at www.barbican.org.uk\/artgallery<\/a><\/p>\n

Laurie Guillem<\/p>\n

Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion – 15 October 2010 \u2013 6 February 2011 – Barbican Art Gallery, London<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Con nessun pretesto dovreste perdervi Future Beauty: 30 anni di moda giapponese alla Barbican Art Gallery. Curata dalla storica della moda giapponese Akiko Fukai,...<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-62062","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mode"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62062","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=62062"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62062\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=62062"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=62062"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxsure.com\/it\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=62062"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}