From Symbolism to the ’70’s
(A critical approach and a manifesto with Giuseppe Zanotti’s words)
The new shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti tell an underground story, create an extremely poetic abstraction, invent new rhythmical “jazzy” steps, play on underground, but most of all, invent a new happy decadence. It is a new form of Symbolism, of abstract representations as it was in visual arts from 1885 to 1910. Symbolism was about avoiding objectivity in favour of the subjective, of ambiguous and powerful symbols. Primitive. Among the artists associated in the Movement there were: Odilon Redon, Gustave Moreau, Gustav Klimt, Fernand Khnopff… The new shoes addiction is, in that sense, a very modern identification, plus an accent of happiness, of constant play, with a form of exaggerated culture. To play with the colors, with the shapes, to be amused by the abstraction. The new memory is the wake-up, the transformation of a woman who lives the 70’s with a constant poetic licence. The real memories are a part of the graphics, prints, volumes, but especially colors. All these elements are re-studied, re-formulated and exude a light mood less intrusive, more subdued… After all, this woman aims to be comfortable, at ease and to move with a “contemporary step”.
There is not only the high heel, the stiletto, but there is also a flat basic version, as well as an exaggerated one. But, above all, the real immediate choc is the color, from water green to deep blue, to cobalt, also yellow, there are “pastiches” of green which give the idea of water. The textures include chamois, which is prevailing. Then there is varnish, with an almost technological atmosphere with yellow, turquoise, fuchsia, which are combined together or separate. Then there is graphic animalier, slightly arrogant. Python, seen as another graphic element. Embroideries which are made in an almost confused way and suggest Dalì. Behind these abstract and symbolistic shoes there is always, anyway, a contemporary soul.
Now even the platform is softened, but the heel is hard, very graphic. Then the work on vamps is like on a canvas. The idea is similar to the arrogant mood of writing on the walls, as the writers express their protestation or whatever, on white surfaces. A platform becomes a base for wood, flowers, embroideries, allowing any kind of declaration. So the styling is always the same, but with muted color mixtures and contrasts. It is like the featuring of a same musical piece, as if different people write on the same shoe.
As for the jewels, there is more silver, more nickels. Cold, chromed, silvered, palladium, coordinated with black lacquer, leather, silk. Jewels which “dress”, from the neck to the heels, necklaces which are made for the neck but can also dress the body. With a baroque feeling.
Sneakers are a come-back to reality as an urban product which crosses every group. They have become the uniform of human kind. T-shirt, jeans, sneakers… Every season Giuseppe Zanotti introduces the same styles, but with different colors and materials. After jeans, sneaker is the real invention of costume.
Through this collection, bags play with ornamental elements like fastenings, handles, metallic stories, a precious mood. And proportions. From the small jewelled clutches to the maxi-bags. A complete bag-stage, a new identification story: from the Symbolism to the ’70’s. Bags are also a form of culture, a message and a frivolous obsession!