London Fashion Week – Marios Schwab SS13

Tribalism and tribute to ancestors were at the heart of Marios Schwab’s 2013 Spring/Summer collection, taking a nostalgic look at heritage and ancient rituals.

The Greco-Austrian designer gave us sublime pleated dresses or tunics that Greek goddesses wouldn’t have disavowed, either in a rich colour palette of burnt oranges, deep blues and fuchsia hues, or in powerful black and white to underline the simple perfection of the cut. Soft leather has been used throughout, either as main fabric of the garments or as an accessory to frame the body. Chains of Swarovski crystals are also framing bodies and garments, like harnesses, to reminisce the armour of Amazon queen Penthesilea.

Raffia fringes give a tribal touch to the outfits, finding an echo in the incredible sandals designed by Ancient Greek Sandals for Marios Schwab. Honeycomb pattern, another inspiration for the collection, as a beautiful and complex structure created by humble workers, was also used throughout, either as a  knit pattern or as the structure of some garments itself.

A truly spectacular and breath-taking collection, which ended with long evening dresses to die for, in ecru or black mesh covering the whole body, only embellished with crystals and embroidery.

Marios Schwab also launched the same day his lingerie line, Kallisti – meaning ‘the most beautiful’ in Greek – in partnership with ASOS. The collection was showcased in two 20 minute performances by no less than the cast of the Crazy Horse, the mythic Parisian cabaret, in town until December on the South Bank. Designer and DJ Pam Hogg was on the decks before and between the performances – which were, as expected, absolutely incredible – a true ‘leçon d’érotisme’ à la française. A very successful launch for Marios Schwab’s debut lingerie line, which will be available at ASOS from November.

Laurie Guillem