Collezione Hed Mayner SS22

HED MAYNER — Spring/Summer 2022

Nomadland

The groove between isolation and shelter is always there in the line of Hed Mayner’s clothes; we can find it in the heaviness of French linen canvas, the rustle of wide sleeves, the weight of straight-leg pants.

SS22 is a study of the terrain that runs both through and around us.

The collection thrums with an opulent eagerness to be out and on the move. It imagines clothing as home, a place where you carry everything with you. A racerback vest is covered in a paranoia of square pockets. Roomy coveralls are ruched at the hips and finished with shirt cuff sleeves. Robust straight-leg cargo pants are wide to the floor and hit the top of flat sneakers or braided sandals. Roomy gilets have a single flap pocket on the back; a languid tabard, split at the back, doubles as a cape. Shirts are constructed to appear layered as if hastily worn. A tailored suit is in washed moleskin.

Mayner treats workwear with pragmatic vigour. The line is elongated, in an heavier Mayner’s way. The gesture pressed into the clothes is brutal, like the craggy landscape around them. There is a nomadic vastness to the silhouette; belted hats protect and cocoon. Sleeves pool around the wrist when stuffed into pockets. Pants are cuffed.

Classic Hed Mayner styles, move away from traditional sartorial textiles, and are recontextualised in hardy cotton drills, linen canvas and Japanese washed cottons, each chosen for their corporeal heft. While the drills evoke the durability of nineties streetwear, heavy linen canvas echoes the uniforms of 19th century labourers. Copper, rust, cobalt blue, stone, rose quartz – the palette is washed, worn and faded by the harsh sun.

Mayner’s proportions are shrugged on, generously layered, one on top of another. More interior than exterior, a space to explore, his clothes are about telling stories: giving, moving, being.