Can you think of a cooler venue for a fashion show than New York’s historic Pier 57? Very fitting given that’s where Joseph Abboud’s newish creative director Bernardo Rojo premiered his Fall/Winter 2012 Collection for the American menswear label. This was the first runway show for the brand in seven years, but you wouldn’t know it. Rojo has taken charge of this 25-year-old institution that prides itself in artful masculinity and timeless authenticity, producing a sophisticated menswear show that challenged the best of them.
This is American menswear for the alpha male. Self-made, self-aware and 100% masculine – Rojo’s designs look back on to a great era in American design reworking classic elements in a modern way. We spent some time with Rojo as one of his exclusive guests at his hardcopy-invite-only-after-party (music by DJ Theophilus London). He confirmed his inspiration for FW12 from the strength and utilitarian beauty of the mid-1930s America. The male silhouette is a reinterpretation of Boardwalk Empire tailoring with strong shoulders and a modern streamlined fit.
The palette is very Italian FW12 with greys, blues, and burgundies dominating the collection. Glen plaids, shadow plaids, flannels, and checks in peak lapelled suits pay tribute to the best of the 1930s. Discussed with Rojo was how impressive his selection and quality of fabrics that ranged from rich flecked wool to cashmere and alpaca. One of the best menswear shows to come out of Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week.
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